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Day 5: Saigon — Never Looking Back

“The best way out is always through.” ― Robert Frost

View of District 4 through a rainy window [8/23/2023]

Through only five days, I can say that Vietnam is a wonderful country that I developed a connection with. But it would be a blatant lie if I said I even came close to comprehending this complex and convoluted place. However, it takes little time for some aspects of Vietnamese society to be realized and appreciated.

First of all, the radiance of its people. They are some of the kindest and purest souls I’ve ever met. Helpful, curious, and always willing to serve you up something absurdly delicious, their warm demeanor puts you at ease and helps you feel right at home. Even with the extensive language barrier between us, these attributes naturally pour out of them.

Secondly, the food. It boggles my mind how many street food stalls and restaurants one can stumble upon in Saigon. But we must keep in mind that many Saigonese eat primarily on the streets, and with over 8.9 million people, that’s a massive demand to cover. On the ground level, this makes for a truly staggering amount of street vendors and food operations. Walking hungrily down the streets is a full-body experience for us food-obsessed travelers.

While aimlessly exploring, I came across various markets of food stalls and restaurants, which often veered off into surrounding street food-infested alleyways, which in turn opened up into a new market, which also contained completely undiscovered food-lined mazes. And it seems like one could just repeat this process in an endless loop; the number of culinary options here is virtually limitless.

Finally, the unique energy and ambiance this city possesses. When you arrive in Saigon, there is no middle ground; you are met with a multitude of extremes: The traffic has the ferocity of a starved predator; cars and motorbikes veer around pedestrians and one another with only millimeters of room to play with. Stray dogs run amiss beneath your feet. The ears fill with the yelling of merchants, attempting to sell or barter whatever it is they have. Live caged chickens await slaughter only footsteps away from luxury hotels. Street children with tattered clothes beg on the sidewalk while unfazed onlookers stuff their faces with food. Multimillion-dollar construction projects tower over dirty and decayed apartment buildings.

A true city of contrasts and intensity; it isn’t for the faint of heart.

Growing pains are inevitable for someplace developing this rapidly. Saigon is changing; this much is evident when one simply sets eyes on the city. While confronting extreme poverty here is still impossible to avoid, there is also money flowing, and opportunity. The Vietnamese have fought incredibly hard to get to this place, and they now have a chance to progress — they have hope for the future.

It is uncertain what the Vietnam of tomorrow will look like. But what is certain is the character and strength of its people. They have put aside their unimaginably difficult past — through pure grit, tenacity, and forgiveness, they have resurrected their homeland into the Vietnam of today. With that, it also will be their duty to confront and overcome the new challenges they will inevitably face, shaping their country’s future. And if history tells us anything, it’s that they will prevail.

If there’s one thing we can learn from Vietnam, it’s to never look back. Leave it all in the rearview.

Motorbike cruising, leaving District 4 [8/21/23]

Saigon, until we meet again…

Day 4: Saigon — The Motorbike

“Saigon traffic is Vietnamese life, a continuous charade of posturing, bluffing, fast moves, tenacity and surrenders.” — Andrew X. Pham

Me cruising on the back of a motorbike in Saigon’s District 1 [8/22/23]

The overwhelmingly preferred way to navigate Saigon is by motorbike. There are around 8.9 million people residing in Saigon, and while the reported number varies, statistics on motorbike ownership by Saigon’s Department of Transportation reveal that there are over 7.6 million of them roaming the streets.

Impossible to escape, the rushing flurry of the never-ending traffic in this city provides it with a distinctive feature. It’s a type of (semi-) controlled chaos that one must embrace. For barely one US dollar, you’ll be whizzed off around town in any direction you please. If you ever find yourself in Saigon, I urge you to hitch a ride on the back of someone’s motorbike and allow yourself to submit to the exhilarating adventure that will inevitably ensue.

Top view of rushing motorbikes in Saigon’s District 4 [8/22/2023]

Zipping, zooming, zigging, zagging, (and every other conceivable action interjection that exists), you are now part of a world where, as a mere passenger, you have no control. You will be met with an array of tumultuous scenarios that range from close calls to death-defying. With little regard for safety (or life for that matter), the courageous drivers (some as young as twelve it seems) all participate in a synchronous dance of sorts, one that is largely conducted by the constant whaling of their horns. They use them as if they were a free money button; the constant blares surround you in every feasible direction, practically morphing into a language of its own.

And indeed, all the drivers seem to be fluent in this vehicular dialect, as they traverse Saigon’s vast labyrinth of streets and alleyways with impressive ease.

Another stunning feature of the motorbike operators is their ability to carry along with them any object(s) or amount of people that one can imagine. I haven’t even been here a full week, but I’ve seen some pretty incredible stuff. A giant metal gas tank? No problem! An antique dresser made almost entirely of glass? Sure! Cinderblocks and tiles tied down with ratchet straps that look as if they’re moments away from snapping? Child’s play. And speaking of kids, the Saigonese somehow manage to spectacularly include their entire household on one of these things, complete with a toddler nestled in right up front. Talk about a family bonding experience…

Scenes of motorbikes from Saigon’s streets

While participating in this spectacle of mayhem can certainly be downright terrifying, there is also a feeling of invincibility, freedom, and blissful carelessness that comes with it. Perhaps this array of emotions is conjured up by constantly teetering on the edge of meeting one’s fate.

However, the motorbikes of Saigon are synonymous with life here; they serve as the veins of the city, each one acting as an essential cell, pumping it with the hopes, desires, and dreams of its millions of people.

Motorbike scene with District 1 in the distance [8/21/2023]

Day 3: Saigon — A Glutton’s Wet Dream

“All of the things I need for happiness: Low plastic stool, check. Tiny little plastic table, check. Something delicious in a bowl, check.” — Anthony Bourdain discussing eating in Vietnam

Me posing with a fresh *bánh xèo* (a stuffed pancake made with rice flour, water, and turmeric powder) [8/20/23]

It doesn’t matter who you are, what your title is, or how much money you make, when you eat on the street in Vietnam, you are part of the collective street food consciousness. Everyone is on the same level here, so pull your little plastic seat up to your miniature table and get cozy, everything is going to be just fine.

Friends exchanging laughs in the buzzing Ho Thi Ky market in Saigon’s District 10 [8/20/2023]

After spending the better part of the evening zooming around on a moped and trying different street food areas and markets around the city, I can say the energy of these places is almost indescribable. The streets and alleyways are packed to the brim with hungry patrons (and moto scooters of course), all embarking on the same mission to satisfy their palates. To say the options here are overwhelming would be a massive understatement. Stumbling around, the eyes, ears, and nose are under constant bombardment from the seemingly endless number of street vendors.

It almost feels as if one is under an intoxicating incantation of culinary delight, as seemingly involuntarily, your innate hedonism successfully sieges the mind and leads you to wherever your stomach can attain the gluttonous satisfaction it is pleading for.

Scenes from Ho Thi Ky market in Saigon’s District 10 [8/20/23]

I only have around five days here, so it would be utterly impossible to even scratch the surface of the food scene in this city. But you can bet that I’ve been making the most of my time.

For every meal, I’ve tried something different. For such a relatively small country, Vietnam has an impressive amount of food diversity, which varies greatly depending on the region of the country you find yourself in. With that being said, I am writing particularly about the food in Saigon. However, the cool thing about the largest cities in most countries is that many people from different regions move to them for better opportunities and economic mobility, and they often bring their food too. So, this results in Saigon having regional food specialties as well.

Many dishes of Saigon’s cuisine can be found in bowls and are accompanied by a host of additives and sauces. Depending on the dish you order, your server will bring out: fresh herbs and greens, bean sprouts, limes, fish sauce, pickled vegetables, dried crunchy onions, black vinegar, minced or whole garlic, hot sauce, hoisin sauce, fresh chilis, dry chili powder, and chili oil (and I’m sure there are more possibilities). This means that with each broth, for example, flavor profiles can change as you’re eating. You have complete control. Want to make your meal more sweet, spicy, crunchy, salty, savory, tangy, or acidic? No worries, they got you covered.

These options allow you to enjoy many different flavor profiles all while slurping on the same bowl of noodles — it’s remarkable, and one of the things I love most about the experience of eating Vietnamese food.

A bowl of *bún cá*, showcasing the various condiments/additives one can add [8/19/2023]

Other than the obvious phở and bánh mì, the dishes I have enjoyed the most (in no particular order) are as follows:

Bún chả – dish of grilled pork meatballs served with a golden broth, rice noodles, and various other additives
Cơm tấm – typical for breakfast, a dish made from rice with fractured rice grains (broken rice) and topped with a variety of additives
Bún thịt nướng – a dish with a combination of grilled pork, rice noodles, veggies, and fish sauce
Chuối Nếp Nướng – a snack with grilled banana wrapped in sticky rice, topped with pure coconut milk
Bún riêu – rice noodle soup made with pork-based broth and tomatoes. It can contain onions, crab meatballs, snails, various types of meat, and fried tofu

The food here alone is enough to make me want to stay. It’s unpretentious and inexplicitly delicious. No one is trying to dress it up and make it something that it’s not. It is pure and comes from the very soul of the Vietnamese people. And they are more than happy to share. Through it, one can be transported to another realm, where the essence of what makes the people here so amazing can be felt.

It’s going to be difficult to part ways…

A street vendor dishing out a breakfast favorite, *cơm tấm*, in a Saigon District 4 alleyway [8/22/2023]

Day 2: Saigon — A City in Flux

“Without tradition, art is a flock of sheep without a shepherd. Without innovation, it is a corpse.” —Winston Churchill

A side street in Saigon’s District 4 [8/20/2023]

As recently as 1975, the Communist forces of Vietnam took complete control of the country and formally ended the war. What occurred from that year until now has been hailed as an economic miracle.

Through various economic reforms and investments, Vietnam now finds itself as one of the most rapidly developing countries in the world. The GDP per capita has skyrocketed in the last 30 years. From extreme poverty to newfound wealth and a solid growing middle class to go with it, Vietnam is looking like it’s in a great position for the coming years.

So what does this rapid transformation transition to on the ground level in Saigon? It creates a lively and chaotic environment that induces feelings of wonder, curiosity, excitement, and endless possibilities. Modern glowing skyscrapers are juxtaposed with makeshift shanty towns, tiny mopeds that are barely still sputtering right next to shiny new Porsches. Saigon is a city of extremes, and it’s not trying to hide a thing about it.

View overlooking Saigon’s District 4 [8/20/2023]

But what about the war? Do the many scars of the conflict still have lasting tangibility today?

One would think that Vietnam’s troubling history with the U.S. would translate to harboring resentment and hard feelings for us Americans. But honestly, they seem largely unfazed by our presence. The first chance I got, I had to bring this subject up with a young Vietnamese guy around my age: “Aren’t there any negative perceptions of Americans here?” I asked. “With all that we did?” “Look,” he responded, “we Vietnamese know that the average citizens are separate from their governments. We are strong and resilient people who focus on what is in front of us and just want to improve the lives of future generations. There were also a great number of people around the world and even inside your country who protested against the war, we appreciated and never forgot that.”

From only a short time in the country, I can tell Vietnam does not cling to its past, but instead looks towards the future with hope, persistence, and determination. Its people have endured unimaginable horrors, but have somehow turned the page. Quite literally rising from the ashes, they now seem ready for whatever challenges get thrown their way. Taking it one street meal and moto taxi ride at a time, something is brewing here. A new Vietnam of the future is materializing right before our very eyes.

An elderly woman crosses a Saigon street [8/19/2023]

Day 1: Saigon — Vibrant, Unpretentious, and Delicious

“A day of traveling will bring a basketful of learning.” — Vietnamese Proverb

View overlooking Saigon’s District 1 [8/18/2023]

I arrived at Tan Son Nhat International Airport rather disoriented and disheveled. After over 30 hours of continuous travel, I was ready to hit the ground running. I went through customs and quickly found the public transport bus to make my way towards the city center.

There is an interesting sense of informality and lawlessness here, especially when it comes to traffic patterns. The constant beeping and zooming of the vehicles all around me was impossible to ignore. While chugging along in the public bus likely from the 90s, I could already feel the electric buzz of this Southeast Asian mega-city — it was almost palpable. I was now at the mercy of Saigon.

And oh, the mopeds. They are everywhere here. And I mean everywhere. There is an endless sea of them, looking out onto the asphalt, they never stop coming; no matter the time of day. Think you can take refuge on the sidewalk? Think again, that “pedestrian” area is free game for them as well. I learned this all too quickly after not glancing over my shoulder before I stepped onto one… close call.

I also noticed almost immediately the sheer size and importance of the informal economy here. Drivers pull to the side of the street in busy traffic to have a chat with the street merchants, or to buy up whatever it is they happen to be selling. And people are selling everything here. From clothes, scrap metal, souvenirs, magazines, the daily newspaper, shoes, hats, literally about anything you can imagine can be bought off the side of the road. Street vendors are the true heartbeat of this city.

Also, the food. My god is it everywhere. I’m like a kid in a candy store here. Except the candy store spans farther than the eyes can see and has candy varieties whose names I can’t pronounce. Down every alley, every street, every last crevasse of the city, you will see a vendor selling something delicious.

Another thing that sticks out is the kindness and hospitality of the Vietnamese people. Now, I know about three words in Vietnamese, but this didn’t stop me from trying my hand at ordering something when I first landed. You would be surprised how far you can get by body language and pointing alone; I’m making due. And my taste buds have thanked me greatly for it so far.

For my first dinner, I decided to enjoy some nem nướng cuon (grilled pork spring rolls).

The way this dish works is, they give you all the ingredients (rice paper, meat, various herbs/greens, and a plethora of sauces) and it’s up to you to construct the roll. The older woman in charge of the restaurant was watching in concern and suspense and I attempted to assemble my first roll. And I have to admit, I was a bit intimidated. After witnessing my struggle, she soon came over to lend a helping hand and kindly showed me a more efficient method.

When I finally made one in success, I could tell both she and my waiter were elated. They expressed genuine joy that I was able to now fully experience the meal in its purest form. I think there was something beautiful about this moment, and it speaks volumes about the Vietnamese people. They are extremely proud of their food culture and love to share it with others. I won’t forget this brief instant of shared happiness. What we couldn’t communicate with words was made up by the connection of simply being human.

Don’t be afraid to look like an idiot, it’s how experts begin.

Saigon’s District 4 on a Friday night [8/18/2023]

Prelude: Why Do We Travel?

“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness, and many of our people need it sorely on these accounts. Broad, wholesome, charitable views of men and things cannot be acquired by vegetating in one little corner of the earth all one’s lifetime.” ― Mark Twain

~30,000 feet over America’s Heartland 8/17/2023

When I was a young child, my parents put an enormous map of the world on my wall. They would often point to each landmass and have me recite the names of the various countries that make up our planet. Even as a child, I was overwhelmed and mystified by how vast the world was. I quickly realized that I was only existing in a small sliver of it. From early on, I found myself completely enveloped in trying to make sense of the world around me. This small exercise helped to ignite my innate curiosity and interest in traveling.

It feels nice to be comfortable. In control of your environment and those around you. Basic things like ease of communication are taken for granted at home. There is also comfort in predictability and familiarity, we often prefer to be in the driver’s seat. There is nothing inherently wrong with this; it’s part of human nature. However, I’d like to argue that there is such a thing as becoming too comfortable. And that there is enormous value in making yourself uncomfortable and exploring an entirely new environment that challenges you to your core.

Travel has an ability to make you experience this distinct uncomfortableness, especially when it’s to a place which is vastly different from what we are familiar with. A place where many contrasts can be encountered: language, food, culture, norms, customs, religion, architecture, etc. Everything must be relearned, our known rules no longer apply. You feel like a toddler again, discovering how to successfully navigate this new environment you’ve been thrust into. Caught up in our daily routines, we often forget that there is a world outside of ours; many, many, worlds. Each with entirely distinct features and attributes that make it unique and beautiful.

While this feeling of being out of place can be extremely stressful, I challenge you to change your perspective during these situations. Not being in control, and being vulnerable, can open your mind to entirely new perspectives on the world and the people that make it up. While it can certainly be frightening to not know the local language, for example, it can also be reframed into an exciting mental exercise. Making you work and learn to do things that are entirely seamless in your world.

Doha, Qatar International Airport 8/17/2023

So then, to address our question at hand: Why do we travel? Of course, this question can bring many different answers, and there are no right or wrong ones. There are many different types of situations that call for different types of travel. But most often I think we look to travel as a relaxing escape. Where we don’t have to think much or make difficult decisions. Where we may be waited on hand and foot. Visiting a fantasyland that is procured to put us at ease as we’re treated like some kind of God because we bought the deluxe premium package.

Now, I’m not completely knocking this style, and we all do need to travel simply to relax and recharge. But I argue that we need to explore the other side of travel as well. The side that pushes you into unfamiliar territories with unfamiliar people doing unfamiliar things. You are certainly capable of having an experience like this and overcoming the various difficulties that come with it. Watch as you emerge from the other side as a more complete person, with a newfound perspective, a heightened sense of empathy, and a deeper understanding of what it means to be human.

This is a prelude to my month-long journey and may help to explain why I am embarking on it. And why I feel that everyone reading should try their hand at something similar.

Vietnam, Thailand, Taiwan, South Korea, and Japan. The Exotic East: Each Asian nation offers something entirely unique. I will be completely out of my element in each. I intend not to show you only the glitz and glam side of each country, but also the real, raw, and unfiltered version. Join me along the way as I seek to uncover and share the various intricacies and realities of each society I find myself in.

Saigon, Vietnam 8/18/2023

Hungary: A Country Full of Surprises

View from Gellért Hill overlooking the Danube River and both sides of Budapest

I started my trip to Hungary as I start most of my journeys: I looked on Ryanair for the cheapest flights available to anywhere in Europe. When I found a great deal to Budapest, I knew it was time to go.

Budapest, and Hungary in general, is a place that captivated and surprised me in many pleasant ways. I feel that it’s largely an unknown and misunderstood place, and I wanted to immerse myself to see what made it tick.

I made my way through the streets and alleys of Budapest to try and get a feel for its identity. There was a mix of architecture: relics from the soviet rule, neoclassical, romanesque, gothic, renaissance, and the list goes on. It was truly a feast for the eyes.

Another thing that struck me was the food—oh how delicious it was.

Now, I must admit, a majority of Hungarian food is largely for winter, with combinations of hot and spicy stews and meat being the most typical dishes. However, even in the dead of the summer heat (pushing over 100°F, 38°C!!!), I was thoroughly enjoying these heavy meals.

The biggest surprise for me was the use of hot chilis in their meals. Because of spending so much time in Spain (Spanish food is rarely spicy), I always crave something to make my mouth burn. When the waitress brought me out this jar of Hungarian Chili Paste, I couldn’t have been happier.

Erös Pista, a typical chili paste used in Hungarian cuisine

Aside from the food, the people are also a highlight of the country. They are friendly, talkative, and seem to be proud of being Hungarian (generally speaking). In Budapest, you can find many who speak English and will quickly offer you a chat and their recommendations for the city.

However, when you get away from Budapest, English is much less likely to be found. Hungarian is the official language of the land and is the first language of over 98% of its residents. It’s an interesting language, and not quite like any other I’ve ever heard; it actually has Ural origins, which was another surprise. It’s definitely not a language you can just pick up.

Aside from exploring the city, with my Hungarian friend I had the opportunity to visit a small town three hours train ride from Budapest: Békéscsaba. Life was much different there and no tourists were in sight. There was a much slower pace where time seemed to stand still. Most of the area was flat farmland and green trees with a small but charming city center.

In rural Hungary, I also had the experience of touring a pálinka distillery. Pálinka, a strong (ranges between 35-70% ABV) but flavorful fruity spirit, can be wildly found in Hungary and is treated with a great sense of pride. Our tour guide at the distillery was happy to answer our questions and tell us the many legendary stories that involve the potent liquor.

The liquor’s flavor comes in a wide variety, with the most common being pear, apricot, and plum. However, there are also many unconventional types such as elderflower and quince.

The distillery treated its product with exceptional pride and care. This could be tasted in the pálinka itself, which was extraordinary. Our sampling seemed to never end, and by its conclusion, I think I had about eight or nine glasses of this stuff.

Our tour guide insisting that we drink more pálinka

By the end of this tour, it was safe to say I was feeling it; I think I could almost understand Hungarian.

Hungary: A country full of surprises around every corner; a place that has many identities. It’s a place that I urge you to get lost in. From the people to the food, it will leave you wanting more. Whether it’s admiring the architecture, enjoying its many spas, or sipping a bit too much pálinka, you’re sure to find whatever it is you’re looking for.

Another viewpoint from the path of Gellért Hill, near the Chitadella (citadel)

A Day in Bologna, Italy

Giant mortadella sandwich from Mo Mòrtadella Lab in Bologna

Bologna is located in the northern region of Emilia-Romagna. It’s a city that is not often at the top of the list for the average traveler, but I feel that they’re many reasons why it should be.

Firstly (and maybe paradoxically), it doesn’t feel touristy at all. So it’s easier to get that authentic Italian experience without waiting in massive lines or getting hounded by scammers. Here, you will find an abundance of great food, architecture, and people.

Pork seems to be king of this region in Italy. On almost every menu you will find a wide array of different charcuterie containing pork cuts like cured prosciutto, mortadella, salami, and porchetta.

Fresh pasta shop in an alleyway in Bologna

You might find yourself lost in the small streets in the historic city center, whose origins can be traced back to the Bronze Age more than 3,000 years ago.

Fresh meats, cheeses, and pasta can be found from vendors all over town, who sell to tourists and locals alike. I encourage you to look around and see what you can find.

View from the top of degli Asinelli, the tallest of the iconic Two Towers of Bologna’s city center

One of the highlights of the city is the view from Le Torri Due (The Two Towers) of Bologna’s city center. These massive towers were constructed between the years 1109 and 1119, and the largest one stands at 97.2 meters tall (319 feet). There used to be towers like these all over the city, but most have been deconstructed and only a handful remain. The exact purpose of these towers is still unclear; some historians think it had to do with defense, while others say it could have been a way for affluent families to display their wealth and power.

Bologna is a wonderful under-the-radar city with a certain charm. Whether you decide to walk up the many steps of the massive tower, or just mosey around and eat pasta and gelato, you won’t be disappointed by the truly authentic experience this city provides.

Journey to Xàtiva, Spain

Xàtiva (pronounced sha-ti-va) is a small and charming Spanish town located in the Valencian Community. It’s about an hour train ride from the city center of Valencia. The town is well known locally for its beautiful castle ruins just a short hike from the town center.

I woke up last Friday with the intention to go to Xàtiva and film a video for my Youtube channel. I went the week before as well, but unfortunately, my camera had an SD card issue, so I lost all of my footage from that day. However, I knew I needed to go back, as the town is too majestic not to show to the world.

So, I took my camera with me and made the trek back to ol’ Xàtiva!

When I first got off the train and stepped onto the streets of Xàtiva, I was immediately enchanted. It is the quintessential example of a traditional Spanish town. The train station even has a typical Spanish bar with beers on tap and a variety of tapas. Other than its beauty, my first impressions of the town were its bustling streets and central market. Residents of the town can be easily heard filling the streets and terraces with their chatter and gossip. Many elderly couples were bundled up, walking arm and arm to find some relief from the brisk winter winds.

As I made my way to the central market, I found myself becoming purposefully lost in the captivating alleyways of the town. Every alley is similar but somehow retains its own identity. I was dazzled by the many hanging vines and potted plants that gave the baloneys so much character.

I then made my way to the town center, which has a busy market in the morning. Some meats, spices, and vegetables could be found, but vendors were mostly selling cheap clothes and accessories.

I eventually reached the base of the road to the castle ruins and began my ascent. When first starting the hike, I was greeted with great views of the city below. Various sounds of the town could also be heard: church bells, children playing, and sputtering car engines.

The hike takes around 30-40 minutes depending on your pace. When I arrived at the castle gates, I encountered beautiful doors and a massive archway. The castle has several different lookout points where you have a 360 view of the quaint town below.

All in all, Xàtiva is a wonderful day journey from Valencia if you want to get a taste of traditional pueblo life in Spain; beautiful views, fresh air, and a slower pace of life.