Day 9: Bangkok — A Curious Concoction

“The allure of Bangkok lies in its ability to surprise and inspire at every turn.” — Unknown

View of one of the many side streets in Bangkok’s Chinatown [8/23/2023]

I landed in Bangkok in the afternoon on August 23rd and took the bus to the public transport. An average person would have probably just called a taxi, but I like to challenge myself to see if I can navigate to my destination like the locals. Also, I just really love riding metro systems.

I’m not going to lie, I didn’t expect much of Bangkok’s metro system, but to my surprise, it seemed modern, clean, and efficient. I was able to find the station, buy a ticket, and navigate to my destination with relative ease.

Comparing it with my baseline of Vietnam, at first impression Bangkok is it’s a tad more dressed up and modernized than Saigon (in some areas). I am staying in the Chinatown neighborhood of Bangkok, which is quite exciting and bustling with life. The Chinese have a long history in Thailand and have been migrating here for hundreds of years. And of course, this reality makes for both cultural and culinary conglomerations.

A Chinese-Thai restaurant in Bangkok’s Chinatown [8/24/2023]

Like Saigon, The abundance of food in Bangkok is overwhelming. Only here, the wok is king. Many street food carts have multiple giant woks ready to go at a moment’s notice. In the blink of an eye, the vendors take orders, and all in one motion, throw the ingredients into the blisteringly hot woks. Like an angry dragon, flames shoot out from under the food while the cook shakes and stirs the contents vigorously with a metal spatula, cooking it to perfection at an astonishing speed. A mixture of steam and smoke instantaneously emits, filling the air with a distinct aroma which usually consists of meat, fresh herbs/spices, and of course, Thai chilis. A true match made in heaven.

The sound of this process is jarring as well; with an initial sizzle so piercing that it could make an unsuspecting patron leap out of their chair. In fact, one will undoubtedly see and hear many bewildering things here. But don’t be alarmed, this is Bangkok.

Bangkok’s Chinatown [8/24/2023]

The shock and awe here seem to be part of the character of this city. Perusing around the streets, something (or someone) is bound to catch your eye and make you realize that you’re not in Kansas anymore — this is about as far from American suburbia as one can get.

While intense and at times unrestrained, the people here are also kind to their core; they have deeply rooted Buddhist traditions that emphasize dignity and respect for fellow human beings. People want to ensure you are happy, fed, and cared for. When saying “thank you” it is customary to join hands and give a bow, which I find incredibly endearing. It also tears down barriers and helps you feel connected to the person on the other end. And street vendors are often happy to serve foreigners; when sharing how much you enjoyed the meal their faces often light up with excitement and joy.

As someone who loves to sit and simply observe foreign societies, Bangkok is like Disneyland for me. I could sit for hours on a busy street corner and take it all in. The sights, the sounds, the food, there is so much going on; there is a story happening everywhere. There is also an elusive aura here that I am having difficulty understanding, perhaps this is due to my biased Western lens of interpretation.

I’ve never been exposed to something quite this exotic. 

One of the many Buddhist temples in Bangkok [8/25/23]

Day 1: Saigon — Vibrant, Unpretentious, and Delicious

“A day of traveling will bring a basketful of learning.” — Vietnamese Proverb

View overlooking Saigon’s District 1 [8/18/2023]

I arrived at Tan Son Nhat International Airport rather disoriented and disheveled. After over 30 hours of continuous travel, I was ready to hit the ground running. I went through customs and quickly found the public transport bus to make my way towards the city center.

There is an interesting sense of informality and lawlessness here, especially when it comes to traffic patterns. The constant beeping and zooming of the vehicles all around me was impossible to ignore. While chugging along in the public bus likely from the 90s, I could already feel the electric buzz of this Southeast Asian mega-city — it was almost palpable. I was now at the mercy of Saigon.

In Saigon Traffic [8/19/2023]

And oh, the mopeds. They are everywhere here. And I mean everywhere. There is an endless sea of them, looking out onto the asphalt, they never stop coming; no matter the time of day. Think you can take refuge on the sidewalk? Think again, that “pedestrian” area is free game for them as well. I learned this all too quickly after not glancing over my shoulder before I stepped onto one… close call.

I also noticed almost immediately the sheer size and importance of the informal economy here. Drivers pull to the side of the street in busy traffic to have a chat with the street merchants, or to buy up whatever it is they happen to be selling. And people are selling everything here. From clothes, scrap metal, souvenirs, magazines, the daily newspaper, shoes, hats, literally about anything you can imagine can be bought off the side of the road. Street vendors are the true heartbeat of this city.

Also, the food. My god is it everywhere. I’m like a kid in a candy store here. Except the candy store spans farther than the eyes can see and has candy varieties whose names I can’t pronounce. Down every alley, every street, every last crevasse of the city, you will see a vendor selling something delicious.

Another thing that sticks out is the kindness and hospitality of the Vietnamese people. Now, I know about three words in Vietnamese, but this didn’t stop me from trying my hand at ordering something when I first landed. You would be surprised how far you can get by body language and pointing alone; I’m making due. And my taste buds have thanked me greatly for it so far.

For my first dinner, I decided to enjoy some nem nướng cuon (grilled pork spring rolls).

The way this dish works is, they give you all the ingredients (rice paper, meat, various herbs/greens, and a plethora of sauces) and it’s up to you to construct the roll. The older woman in charge of the restaurant was watching in concern and suspense and I attempted to assemble my first roll. And I have to admit, I was a bit intimidated. After witnessing my struggle, she soon came over to lend a helping hand and kindly showed me a more efficient method.

When I finally made one in success, I could tell both she and my waiter were elated. They expressed genuine joy that I was able to now fully experience the meal in its purest form. I think there was something beautiful about this moment, and it speaks volumes about the Vietnamese people. They are extremely proud of their food culture and love to share it with others. I won’t forget this brief instant of shared happiness. What we couldn’t communicate with words was made up by the connection of simply being human.

Don’t be afraid to look like an idiot, it’s how experts begin.

Saigon’s District 4 on a Friday night [8/18/2023]