Food – Hello there!

Day 16: Taipei — The Foods Come Out at Night

When the sun goes down in Taipei, the city is transformed into a street food Mecca. In many areas around the city, you’ll find night markets that spring up in their designated places every night from around 5-11 PM.

A truly genius idea if you ask me; they’re doing it right.

While the night markets center around food, they also seem to have a deep cultural importance. Kids can be seen playing near the stalls. Families meet to have a meal together and enjoy the night. Teens meet up to have some food and hit the arcade. It’s a place where one can be carefree and simply enjoy the ambiance. Luckily, tourists like me get to temporarily participate in this nightly ritual.

While I was visiting one of the markets, I even got the opportunity to witness a Taiwanese celebration of sorts. I’m not entirely sure what the occasion was, but a full-scale parade invaded the middle of the night market alley to play traditional music and have performances. It was quite an unexpected experience and gave more insight into how food and culture are deeply intertwined here.

I went to four different night markets during my time in Taipei, and my stomach was quite happy at each. These markets are popular with locals and tourists alike, young and old, rich and poor, and are buzzing with energy. While perusing the pedestrian-only streets, you can find treats that go for just a few USD each: Grilled meats, dumplings, oyster omelets, Taiwanese fried chicken, frog eggs, octopus, lu rou fan (braised pork belly over rice), and of course, the infamous stinky tofu.

Stinky tofu is tofu that has been fermented. And they call it “stinky” for a reason, you can smell this stuff being cooked up outside from a few streets over. The odor most closely resembles an uncleaned horse stable.

So naturally, I had to try it.

While the smell is quite strong, the flavor isn’t nearly as potent. It tastes like typical fried tofu only with a slight twang. Not too bad, I ended up eating it several times in Taipei.

Aside from this, you can find many more foods in Taipei’s many night markets that I didn’t have the chance to try or still don’t know about. I also noticed that there were a few food stands that were experimenting with new flavors and fusions, which I also found exciting. I felt like a child walking down the long aisles of food stalls, in a complete daze by all the lights, smells, and sights. The night markets seem to be an important part of the culture here, and they serve as social spaces for people to gather and enjoy good food.

Taipei is an innovative and food-centered city that can easily quell your hunger. Its distinctive cuisine will pique your interest; you’ll want to try something new here, just don’t mind the smell.

Taiwanese braised pork over rice and mushrooms, yu choy, and tofu

Day 10: Bangkok — Exuding Exoticism

“Thailand was never a European colony, so even though the city is very Western on the surface, deep down it’s very Asian. It’s quite enigmatic, and I like that. I can’t get to the bottom of Bangkok, and I never will.” — Lawrence Thomas

Me posing with a giant golden Buddha at a temple just outside of Bangkok [8/25/2023]

After several days in Bangkok, I can say it’s somewhere I can’t quite put my finger on.

As the above quote states, there are signs of capitalism and Western culture everywhere. However, once you look a bit deeper, you are met with an array of differences from Western society. A large part of this is likely due to Thailand never being a European colony, its identity has stayed much more pure and uncorrupted than many of its neighboring nations. With this historical knowledge in mind, one can begin to realize why Bangkok can be perceived as deeply exotic by us Westerners.

Buddhist temples are littered around the city, inducing a sense of awe. People are sleeping on the streets at an uncomfortable number. Pungent and unfamiliar odors fill the air, changing from moment to moment. From swage, decaying animals, fermenting garbage, meat and spices, fish, fruit, and deep-fried dough, to everything in between, one’s nose is filled with a morphing concoction of unfamiliar smells.

Bangkok is also a city that seems to specialize in normalizing the taboo. One can find whatever (or whomever) they’re looking for here; it provides limitless options to fulfill every lustful fantasy we humans hold. It boasts an infamous red light district, where just about anything the mind can imagine can be witnessed. Additionally, one will also surely encounter the city’s many prostitutes. They can easily be found lining the streets at all hours, attempting to lure in any lonely man who passes them by.

Alleyway of Bangkok’s Chinatown, prostitution is common here [8/25/23]

I wish I could offer more insights about Bangkok, but it remains a mystery. I find it quite difficult to write about honestly. Shrouded in a veil of Eastern mysticism, it is enormously different than the society to which I am accustomed. On the surface, Bangkok is modernizing and evolving, but beneath its surface, there remain deep-rooted traditions that seem to be impermeable to new influence and change.

Bangkok came and went like a dream. Upon departing, I find myself rubbing my eyes in perplexity, questioning the very existence of this exotic wonderland.

Day 9: Bangkok — A Curious Concoction

“The allure of Bangkok lies in its ability to surprise and inspire at every turn.” — Unknown

View of one of the many side streets in Bangkok’s Chinatown [8/23/2023]

I landed in Bangkok in the afternoon on August 23rd and took the bus to the public transport. An average person would have probably just called a taxi, but I like to challenge myself to see if I can navigate to my destination like the locals. Also, I just really love riding metro systems.

I’m not going to lie, I didn’t expect much of Bangkok’s metro system, but to my surprise, it seemed modern, clean, and efficient. I was able to find the station, buy a ticket, and navigate to my destination with relative ease.

Comparing it with my baseline of Vietnam, at first impression Bangkok is it’s a tad more dressed up and modernized than Saigon (in some areas). I am staying in the Chinatown neighborhood of Bangkok, which is quite exciting and bustling with life. The Chinese have a long history in Thailand and have been migrating here for hundreds of years. And of course, this reality makes for both cultural and culinary conglomerations.

A Chinese-Thai restaurant in Bangkok’s Chinatown [8/24/2023]

Like Saigon, The abundance of food in Bangkok is overwhelming. Only here, the wok is king. Many street food carts have multiple giant woks ready to go at a moment’s notice. In the blink of an eye, the vendors take orders, and all in one motion, throw the ingredients into the blisteringly hot woks. Like an angry dragon, flames shoot out from under the food while the cook shakes and stirs the contents vigorously with a metal spatula, cooking it to perfection at an astonishing speed. A mixture of steam and smoke instantaneously emits, filling the air with a distinct aroma which usually consists of meat, fresh herbs/spices, and of course, Thai chilis. A true match made in heaven.

The sound of this process is jarring as well; with an initial sizzle so piercing that it could make an unsuspecting patron leap out of their chair. In fact, one will undoubtedly see and hear many bewildering things here. But don’t be alarmed, this is Bangkok.

The shock and awe here seem to be part of the character of this city. Perusing around the streets, something (or someone) is bound to catch your eye and make you realize that you’re not in Kansas anymore — this is about as far from American suburbia as one can get.

While intense and at times unrestrained, the people here are also kind to their core; they have deeply rooted Buddhist traditions that emphasize dignity and respect for fellow human beings. People want to ensure you are happy, fed, and cared for. When saying “thank you” it is customary to join hands and give a bow, which I find incredibly endearing. It also tears down barriers and helps you feel connected to the person on the other end. And street vendors are often happy to serve foreigners; when sharing how much you enjoyed the meal their faces often light up with excitement and joy.

As someone who loves to sit and simply observe foreign societies, Bangkok is like Disneyland for me. I could sit for hours on a busy street corner and take it all in. The sights, the sounds, the food, there is so much going on; there is a story happening everywhere. There is also an elusive aura here that I am having difficulty understanding, perhaps this is due to my biased Western lens of interpretation.

I’ve never been exposed to something quite this exotic.

One of the many Buddhist temples in Bangkok [8/25/23]

Day 5: Saigon — Never Looking Back

“The best way out is always through.” ― Robert Frost

View of District 4 through a rainy window [8/23/2023]

Through only five days, I can say that Vietnam is a wonderful country that I developed a connection with. But it would be a blatant lie if I said I even came close to comprehending this complex and convoluted place. However, it takes little time for some aspects of Vietnamese society to be realized and appreciated.

First of all, the radiance of its people. They are some of the kindest and purest souls I’ve ever met. Helpful, curious, and always willing to serve you up something absurdly delicious, their warm demeanor puts you at ease and helps you feel right at home. Even with the extensive language barrier between us, these attributes naturally pour out of them.

Secondly, the food. It boggles my mind how many street food stalls and restaurants one can stumble upon in Saigon. But we must keep in mind that many Saigonese eat primarily on the streets, and with over 8.9 million people, that’s a massive demand to cover. On the ground level, this makes for a truly staggering amount of street vendors and food operations. Walking hungrily down the streets is a full-body experience for us food-obsessed travelers.

While aimlessly exploring, I came across various markets of food stalls and restaurants, which often veered off into surrounding street food-infested alleyways, which in turn opened up into a new market, which also contained completely undiscovered food-lined mazes. And it seems like one could just repeat this process in an endless loop; the number of culinary options here is virtually limitless.

Finally, the unique energy and ambiance this city possesses. When you arrive in Saigon, there is no middle ground; you are met with a multitude of extremes: The traffic has the ferocity of a starved predator; cars and motorbikes veer around pedestrians and one another with only millimeters of room to play with. Stray dogs run amiss beneath your feet. The ears fill with the yelling of merchants, attempting to sell or barter whatever it is they have. Live caged chickens await slaughter only footsteps away from luxury hotels. Street children with tattered clothes beg on the sidewalk while unfazed onlookers stuff their faces with food. Multimillion-dollar construction projects tower over dirty and decayed apartment buildings.

A true city of contrasts and intensity; it isn’t for the faint of heart.

Growing pains are inevitable for someplace developing this rapidly. Saigon is changing; this much is evident when one simply sets eyes on the city. While confronting extreme poverty here is still impossible to avoid, there is also money flowing, and opportunity. The Vietnamese have fought incredibly hard to get to this place, and they now have a chance to progress — they have hope for the future.

It is uncertain what the Vietnam of tomorrow will look like. But what is certain is the character and strength of its people. They have put aside their unimaginably difficult past — through pure grit, tenacity, and forgiveness, they have resurrected their homeland into the Vietnam of today. With that, it also will be their duty to confront and overcome the new challenges they will inevitably face, shaping their country’s future. And if history tells us anything, it’s that they will prevail.

If there’s one thing we can learn from Vietnam, it’s to never look back. Leave it all in the rearview.

Motorbike cruising, leaving District 4 [8/21/23]

Saigon, until we meet again…

Day 3: Saigon — A Glutton’s Wet Dream

“All of the things I need for happiness: Low plastic stool, check. Tiny little plastic table, check. Something delicious in a bowl, check.” — Anthony Bourdain discussing eating in Vietnam

Me posing with a fresh *bánh xèo* (a stuffed pancake made with rice flour, water, and turmeric powder) [8/20/23]

It doesn’t matter who you are, what your title is, or how much money you make, when you eat on the street in Vietnam, you are part of the collective street food consciousness. Everyone is on the same level here, so pull your little plastic seat up to your miniature table and get cozy, everything is going to be just fine.

Friends exchanging laughs in the buzzing Ho Thi Ky market in Saigon’s District 10 [8/20/2023]

After spending the better part of the evening zooming around on a moped and trying different street food areas and markets around the city, I can say the energy of these places is almost indescribable. The streets and alleyways are packed to the brim with hungry patrons (and moto scooters of course), all embarking on the same mission to satisfy their palates. To say the options here are overwhelming would be a massive understatement. Stumbling around, the eyes, ears, and nose are under constant bombardment from the seemingly endless number of street vendors.

It almost feels as if one is under an intoxicating incantation of culinary delight, as seemingly involuntarily, your innate hedonism successfully sieges the mind and leads you to wherever your stomach can attain the gluttonous satisfaction it is pleading for.

Scenes from Ho Thi Ky market in Saigon’s District 10 [8/20/23]

I only have around five days here, so it would be utterly impossible to even scratch the surface of the food scene in this city. But you can bet that I’ve been making the most of my time.

For every meal, I’ve tried something different. For such a relatively small country, Vietnam has an impressive amount of food diversity, which varies greatly depending on the region of the country you find yourself in. With that being said, I am writing particularly about the food in Saigon. However, the cool thing about the largest cities in most countries is that many people from different regions move to them for better opportunities and economic mobility, and they often bring their food too. So, this results in Saigon having regional food specialties as well.

Many dishes of Saigon’s cuisine can be found in bowls and are accompanied by a host of additives and sauces. Depending on the dish you order, your server will bring out: fresh herbs and greens, bean sprouts, limes, fish sauce, pickled vegetables, dried crunchy onions, black vinegar, minced or whole garlic, hot sauce, hoisin sauce, fresh chilis, dry chili powder, and chili oil (and I’m sure there are more possibilities). This means that with each broth, for example, flavor profiles can change as you’re eating. You have complete control. Want to make your meal more sweet, spicy, crunchy, salty, savory, tangy, or acidic? No worries, they got you covered.

These options allow you to enjoy many different flavor profiles all while slurping on the same bowl of noodles — it’s remarkable, and one of the things I love most about the experience of eating Vietnamese food.

A bowl of *bún cá*, showcasing the various condiments/additives one can add [8/19/2023]

Other than the obvious phở and bánh mì, the dishes I have enjoyed the most (in no particular order) are as follows:

Bún chả – dish of grilled pork meatballs served with a golden broth, rice noodles, and various other additives
Cơm tấm – typical for breakfast, a dish made from rice with fractured rice grains (broken rice) and topped with a variety of additives
Bún thịt nướng – a dish with a combination of grilled pork, rice noodles, veggies, and fish sauce
Chuối Nếp Nướng – a snack with grilled banana wrapped in sticky rice, topped with pure coconut milk
Bún riêu – rice noodle soup made with pork-based broth and tomatoes. It can contain onions, crab meatballs, snails, various types of meat, and fried tofu

The food here alone is enough to make me want to stay. It’s unpretentious and inexplicitly delicious. No one is trying to dress it up and make it something that it’s not. It is pure and comes from the very soul of the Vietnamese people. And they are more than happy to share. Through it, one can be transported to another realm, where the essence of what makes the people here so amazing can be felt.

It’s going to be difficult to part ways…

A street vendor dishing out a breakfast favorite, *cơm tấm*, in a Saigon District 4 alleyway [8/22/2023]

Day 1: Saigon — Vibrant, Unpretentious, and Delicious

“A day of traveling will bring a basketful of learning.” — Vietnamese Proverb

View overlooking Saigon’s District 1 [8/18/2023]

I arrived at Tan Son Nhat International Airport rather disoriented and disheveled. After over 30 hours of continuous travel, I was ready to hit the ground running. I went through customs and quickly found the public transport bus to make my way towards the city center.

There is an interesting sense of informality and lawlessness here, especially when it comes to traffic patterns. The constant beeping and zooming of the vehicles all around me was impossible to ignore. While chugging along in the public bus likely from the 90s, I could already feel the electric buzz of this Southeast Asian mega-city — it was almost palpable. I was now at the mercy of Saigon.

And oh, the mopeds. They are everywhere here. And I mean everywhere. There is an endless sea of them, looking out onto the asphalt, they never stop coming; no matter the time of day. Think you can take refuge on the sidewalk? Think again, that “pedestrian” area is free game for them as well. I learned this all too quickly after not glancing over my shoulder before I stepped onto one… close call.

I also noticed almost immediately the sheer size and importance of the informal economy here. Drivers pull to the side of the street in busy traffic to have a chat with the street merchants, or to buy up whatever it is they happen to be selling. And people are selling everything here. From clothes, scrap metal, souvenirs, magazines, the daily newspaper, shoes, hats, literally about anything you can imagine can be bought off the side of the road. Street vendors are the true heartbeat of this city.

Also, the food. My god is it everywhere. I’m like a kid in a candy store here. Except the candy store spans farther than the eyes can see and has candy varieties whose names I can’t pronounce. Down every alley, every street, every last crevasse of the city, you will see a vendor selling something delicious.

Another thing that sticks out is the kindness and hospitality of the Vietnamese people. Now, I know about three words in Vietnamese, but this didn’t stop me from trying my hand at ordering something when I first landed. You would be surprised how far you can get by body language and pointing alone; I’m making due. And my taste buds have thanked me greatly for it so far.

For my first dinner, I decided to enjoy some nem nướng cuon (grilled pork spring rolls).

The way this dish works is, they give you all the ingredients (rice paper, meat, various herbs/greens, and a plethora of sauces) and it’s up to you to construct the roll. The older woman in charge of the restaurant was watching in concern and suspense and I attempted to assemble my first roll. And I have to admit, I was a bit intimidated. After witnessing my struggle, she soon came over to lend a helping hand and kindly showed me a more efficient method.

When I finally made one in success, I could tell both she and my waiter were elated. They expressed genuine joy that I was able to now fully experience the meal in its purest form. I think there was something beautiful about this moment, and it speaks volumes about the Vietnamese people. They are extremely proud of their food culture and love to share it with others. I won’t forget this brief instant of shared happiness. What we couldn’t communicate with words was made up by the connection of simply being human.

Don’t be afraid to look like an idiot, it’s how experts begin.

Saigon’s District 4 on a Friday night [8/18/2023]

Hungary: A Country Full of Surprises

View from Gellért Hill overlooking the Danube River and both sides of Budapest

I started my trip to Hungary as I start most of my journeys: I looked on Ryanair for the cheapest flights available to anywhere in Europe. When I found a great deal to Budapest, I knew it was time to go.

Budapest, and Hungary in general, is a place that captivated and surprised me in many pleasant ways. I feel that it’s largely an unknown and misunderstood place, and I wanted to immerse myself to see what made it tick.

I made my way through the streets and alleys of Budapest to try and get a feel for its identity. There was a mix of architecture: relics from the soviet rule, neoclassical, romanesque, gothic, renaissance, and the list goes on. It was truly a feast for the eyes.

Another thing that struck me was the food—oh how delicious it was.

Now, I must admit, a majority of Hungarian food is largely for winter, with combinations of hot and spicy stews and meat being the most typical dishes. However, even in the dead of the summer heat (pushing over 100°F, 38°C!!!), I was thoroughly enjoying these heavy meals.

The biggest surprise for me was the use of hot chilis in their meals. Because of spending so much time in Spain (Spanish food is rarely spicy), I always crave something to make my mouth burn. When the waitress brought me out this jar of Hungarian Chili Paste, I couldn’t have been happier.

Erös Pista, a typical chili paste used in Hungarian cuisine

Aside from the food, the people are also a highlight of the country. They are friendly, talkative, and seem to be proud of being Hungarian (generally speaking). In Budapest, you can find many who speak English and will quickly offer you a chat and their recommendations for the city.

However, when you get away from Budapest, English is much less likely to be found. Hungarian is the official language of the land and is the first language of over 98% of its residents. It’s an interesting language, and not quite like any other I’ve ever heard; it actually has Ural origins, which was another surprise. It’s definitely not a language you can just pick up.

Aside from exploring the city, with my Hungarian friend I had the opportunity to visit a small town three hours train ride from Budapest: Békéscsaba. Life was much different there and no tourists were in sight. There was a much slower pace where time seemed to stand still. Most of the area was flat farmland and green trees with a small but charming city center.

In rural Hungary, I also had the experience of touring a pálinka distillery. Pálinka, a strong (ranges between 35-70% ABV) but flavorful fruity spirit, can be wildly found in Hungary and is treated with a great sense of pride. Our tour guide at the distillery was happy to answer our questions and tell us the many legendary stories that involve the potent liquor.

The liquor’s flavor comes in a wide variety, with the most common being pear, apricot, and plum. However, there are also many unconventional types such as elderflower and quince.

The distillery treated its product with exceptional pride and care. This could be tasted in the pálinka itself, which was extraordinary. Our sampling seemed to never end, and by its conclusion, I think I had about eight or nine glasses of this stuff.

Our tour guide insisting that we drink more pálinka

By the end of this tour, it was safe to say I was feeling it; I think I could almost understand Hungarian.

Hungary: A country full of surprises around every corner; a place that has many identities. It’s a place that I urge you to get lost in. From the people to the food, it will leave you wanting more. Whether it’s admiring the architecture, enjoying its many spas, or sipping a bit too much pálinka, you’re sure to find whatever it is you’re looking for.

Another viewpoint from the path of Gellért Hill, near the Chitadella (citadel)

A Day in Bologna, Italy

Giant mortadella sandwich from Mo Mòrtadella Lab in Bologna

Bologna is located in the northern region of Emilia-Romagna. It’s a city that is not often at the top of the list for the average traveler, but I feel that they’re many reasons why it should be.

Firstly (and maybe paradoxically), it doesn’t feel touristy at all. So it’s easier to get that authentic Italian experience without waiting in massive lines or getting hounded by scammers. Here, you will find an abundance of great food, architecture, and people.

Pork seems to be king of this region in Italy. On almost every menu you will find a wide array of different charcuterie containing pork cuts like cured prosciutto, mortadella, salami, and porchetta.

Fresh pasta shop in an alleyway in Bologna

You might find yourself lost in the small streets in the historic city center, whose origins can be traced back to the Bronze Age more than 3,000 years ago.

Fresh meats, cheeses, and pasta can be found from vendors all over town, who sell to tourists and locals alike. I encourage you to look around and see what you can find.

View from the top of degli Asinelli, the tallest of the iconic Two Towers of Bologna’s city center

One of the highlights of the city is the view from Le Torri Due (The Two Towers) of Bologna’s city center. These massive towers were constructed between the years 1109 and 1119, and the largest one stands at 97.2 meters tall (319 feet). There used to be towers like these all over the city, but most have been deconstructed and only a handful remain. The exact purpose of these towers is still unclear; some historians think it had to do with defense, while others say it could have been a way for affluent families to display their wealth and power.

Bologna is a wonderful under-the-radar city with a certain charm. Whether you decide to walk up the many steps of the massive tower, or just mosey around and eat pasta and gelato, you won’t be disappointed by the truly authentic experience this city provides.